Day 246 Solomon's Island

Tom in front of Drum Point lighthouse.



What me have an attitude??





Welcome Veterans at the Calvert Museum.



Artist competition




That's all she wrote folks. Hand in your painting!





Lunch at the Captain's Table.


On Friday we passed the mouth of the Potomac River & would have loved to have visited Washington DC but that would be several hundred miles off the route & would be a minimum of 2 weeks so we decide not to take the time. Instead we went to Zahniser’s Yachting Center at Solomon’s Island. We biked to the Calvert Maritime Museum where an artist competition was under way. They had 2 hours to complete their painting and then the art was on display and judged at 1:00 and sold to anyone interested. Since I can’t draw a straight line, I admired their ability as we stood back and watched. The Drum Point Lighthouse was relocated to the Calvert Museum location and beautifully restored. This is one of the few remaining screwpile style lighthouses and it is on the National Register of Historic Places.

Today, Sunday, “Mint Julep” and "Noah Genda" ventured on to the Chesapeake for the forecasted 1-2 feet waves. I had always read to add a foot to whatever they predict and that is right on! We were in 2-3’ and sometimes 4’ as we made our way up the Chesapeake, past the wide mouth of the Choptank River and into the Eastern River for our overnight anchorage. Looks like a well protected quite remote anchorage here off the Miles River and up Hunting Creek in about 10' of water. We are also out of the wind that just won't lay down. Tomorrow we are headed to St Michael's for a one night stay at St. Michael's Harbor Inn and Marina. And then on to Annapolis for a couple of days.

Day 244 Deltaville on the Chesapeake

Where the heck are we?????????????





One of the many lighthouses on the Chesapeake




Wine & cheese party provided by Doziers Regatta Marina





jack Dozier & his wife








Dinner at Toby's






Bob & Pam off "Mint Julep" at the restaurant "Toby's" in Deltaville





Traveling the Chesapeake





We've arrived Solomon's Island




We spent Thursday at the beautiful "Dozier’s Regatta Point Yacht Club" in Deltaville VA. They are a sponsor of the Great Loop Assoc. and the owners are Jack Dozier & his gracious wife. Jack Dozier also publishes the Waterway Guides, a most valuable tool of this journey. This marina is a very nice, clean, professionally staffed, well protected harbor with all the amenities including courtesy cars. They hosted a 5:00 PM wine and cheese party for all the transients in the harbor on the clubhouse veranda with a spectacular view of the marina. The restaurant “Toby’s” will pick you up so they sent 2 cars for the 6 of us going to dinner. Everyone had a good time. Deltaville has a population of less than 2000 residents but we were told there are 23 marinas and 4,500 boats in this area. Unbelievable.

Several loopers arrived here tonight and it was nice to reconnect with old friends. Arriving today were "My Way", "Adagio", "Mint Julep", "Adeana", "All that Jazz" and new friends "Frutity"

We all left around 7:00am for a 57 miles northerly cruise up the Chesapeake Bay. It wasn’t as rough as the other day but even with 2 to 3 foot following seas, it is not a pleasant journey since the auto pilot can’t stay on course so you are constantly fighting the waves. In the middle of our trip we crossed from Virginia to Maryland which is our 14th state number. Currently we are Zahniser’s Yachting Center at Solomon’s Island for the week-end. This is one of 13 marinas that are available for a tie up but we’re happy with our choice. We had a light dinner at The Dry Dock restaurant here at the marina. Bob and Pam off of "Mint Julep" are here also as well as Dave and Pam off of "Adagio" are one marina away.

Day 243 Gloucester Point & Yorktown VA

Tuesday we took advantage of the marina’s shuttle for a 15 minute ride over to Yorktown. A free trolley was available to take you to either end of the peninsula for a historic education on the area. We went to the Yorktown Battlefield Visitors Center. Yorktown is best known as the site where Lord Cornwallis surrendered to General George Washington in 1781 which ended the last major battle of the American Revolutionary War. The buildings are like stepping back in time with brick New England architecture. I found a very patriotic shop called Stars & Stripes where I found 1 Christmas present and 2 presents for me! You have the opportunity to take the marina shuttle back to Yorktown and catch the complimentary trolley to Williamsburg or Jamestown.

York River Yacht Haven in Gloucester Point is $1.75 foot for the first 2 nights and the 3rd night is free. Laundry, showers, swimming pool (not open yet) and a great dinner at the upscale restaurant “River Inn”. Riverwalk Landing across the York River in Yorktown is close to everything but you do not have a calm tie up since you are exposed to the water and it is still windy. It is also $1.75.

Wednesday Tom spent several hours applying Poli-Glow on the side of the boat. That stuff is amazing. I did laundry, boat cleaning, and then we took the courtsey car for lunch and groceries. Crock pot chicken dinner on board with onions, carrots, asparagus and chocolate pie.

We took pie over to fellow Loopers Bob and Pam Shircliff off “Mint Julip”. While we were on board discussing our previous travels and problems, the sky cut loose. Fortunately, we thought ahead to take rain gear.
This morning, (Thursday) we’re killing time waiting for an improved forecast for the Chesapeake. Our weather web sites says it should calm down later this morning.

Day 240 Yorktown, Gloucester Point VA

Leaving Norfolk, VA this morning waiting for channel clearance from the US Navy.






US Navy Shipyard






US Navy Shipyard





Freighters at Norfolk Va harbor.







80' Broward destroyed in a 3:00 AM fire this morning at York River Yacht Haven.







Happy 10th Birthday to our Granddaughter Lauren Lanum!

Today’s NOAA Weather Underground forecasted 2-3’ waves but later in the morning the winds and waves were to calm down. We left Waterside Marina at 8:45 thinking by the time we got off the Elizabeth River and on the Chesapeake Bay it would be late morning. Either we didn’t wait long enough for the weather or the prediction was wrong as we had 3’ and sometimes 4 ‘waves to contend with all morning until we reached the York River heading to York River Yacht Haven. This wasn’t quite as rough as the Gulf Crossing but a close second, however, this time it was daylight, and the time frame was for about 5-hours. We were happy to reach the York River. The winds have been severe for about the last 14 days straight.

Leaving Norfolk, we passed the 4,300 acre Naval Station, the largest naval base in the world, plus we had U.S Navy War Ships, freighters, pilot boats, tug boats, cruising boats, sail boats, fishing boats and U.S Coast Guard vessels coming and going in every direction. This is a very busy port. The radio chatter on channel 13, & 16 is non-stop. Trying to stay out of the way of U.S. Navy vessels, dozens of very large tug boats, and international freighters coming and leaving the Norfolk area is very trying. I would hate to call this my home cruising grounds.

We arrived at York River Yacht Haven in Gloucester Point, VA at 2:30 and were informed on the VHF radio that 2-3 boats had caught fire at 3:00 A.M this morning on the same pier as our assigned transient slip. One of boats in the fire was an 80’ Broward. Another 35’ vessel sank at the dock. At the moment it is undetermined which boat caught fire first since the damage and heat was so severe. No human injuries and fortunately the marina acted promptly and managed to get the burning boats free from the dock before a catastrophic disaster occurred from one boat to another. Can you image the potential danger with all the fuel sitting in about 50 fiberglass boats tied to pier and strong winds.

Our boat is a crusty salty mess from the high waves so we immediately got things ready to rinse the salt off but found the water was shut off due to the fire damage to the dock. Don't touch the rail as you walk by. Hopefully it will be on in the morning.

This is Monday and guess what day the on site marina restaurant is closed??? Bike riding is on the highway without a bike path but the marina does have a courtesy car available plus a shuttle to take you to Yorktown. We’ll do that tomorrow. We plan on staying put for a few days hoping this relentless wind will diminish. This Chesapeake Bay is just too wide and long for a comfortable ride in high winds.
We had a nice quite evening dinner on board, chilled out after a tense day. Watched news and Tuesday night dancing with the Stars.

Day 239 Norfolk VA 5/9/10

This bridge across the Dismal Swamp is not in any books but a farmer was given permission to slide a portable bridge to move his livestock and farm machinery acrossd the canal. If it needs to be opened you lay on the boat horn. I hear he's 80-90 years in age.





Our 13th state






Our traveling companions through the Dismal Swamp & Norfolk.





From this.............







To this........Norfolk skyline








One of the many active Navy ships we passed.





The retired Battleship Wisconsin







All of these towns seem to have a mascot. There are several cool mermaids around the waterfront.


We thoroughly enjoyed our overnight tie up at the Dismal Swamp visitor’s center on Friday. Also spending the night were fellow boaters; “Bum’s Rest” (Patti & Wayne), “Mystic Rose”, Daryl & Janet and Bob off “Illusion”. We became acquainted and they invited us to an outdoor potluck at a picnic table in the park. Good conversation and great food.

This morning (Sat) we all left the Dismal Swamp Visitors Center at 7:30 and traveled the second half of the Dismal Swamp. I have to say I think it was prettier than the first half (if that is possible), and for 2 hours we had the fragrance of wild flowers , honeysuckle we think, all along the banks. We passed from North Carolina to Virginia and arrived at Waterside Marina in Norfolk. You can see from the pictures we left the peace and quiet to the hustle and bustle of a busy navy port. Yikes, these charts are getting real hard to follow! Do you know what is so great about this trip! Everyday is amazing.

Wayne and Patti have been here before so we joined them and Chuck and Kathy aboard “Sheet Music” for dinner at Freemason Abbey Restaurant. This is a beautiful 136 year old church that was converted into a restaurant twenty years ago. Very popular with locals as well as tourists.

This marina is within walking distance to: the National Maritime Center “Nauticus”, the Battleship Wisconsin, and ferry ride across Elizabeth River to Portsmouth, many restaurants (most are closed on Sunday), free ride around Norfolk on Norfolk Electric Transit (NET), Starbucks, and music on the waterfront.

The weather yesterday was 92 degrees – today it is 62 and windy as usual. Since we’ll be traveling on the Chesapeake Bay in very open water, we may lay over another day if it doesn’t calm down, and the forcast doesn’t look good for several days.

Day 237, Dismal Swamp Canal

Cruising the beautiful Pasquotank River this morning





Dismal Swamp Canal at about MM 31







Tom, with Dismal Swamp Canal in background





Diann







Noah Genda at free Visitors Center Dock





Noah Genda at Dismal Swamp Canal visitors center






We didn’t mention our cruise across the Abermarle Sound on Wednesday. We had to weave our way through so many (1,000's) crab pots, I’m ready to give up eating crab! In addition, we encountered 3-4 foot quartering waves which makes the trip a little unpleasant and plus it gets hard to distinguish between the white caps and the crab pots. Tom did a great job of avoiding them.

At this point of the journey it was necessary to make a route choice. Select either the faster “Virginia Cut” route or the slower but more scenic “Great Dismal Swamp”. We chose the Dismal Swamp route which offers a spectacular scenic route leaving Elizabeth City, up the Pasquotank River and into the Turner Cut bringing you to the “South Mills” lock of the Dismal Swamp. What a beautiful winding cruise through some of the most remote areas we have experienced since the Tombigbee Waterway. It is so quiet, with pristine clean water, but tannic and very little development. Once in a while you would come across a dwelling in the wilderness that is miles from civilization as we know it. At MM 28 there is a State Visitors Center and museum with a free dock for overnight transient boaters where we have decided to spend the night. There are four other boats tied to the wall with us.

In 1793, construction began on the Dismal Swamp Canal. The canal had to be dug completely by hand so progress was slow and expensive. Most of the labor was done by slaves hired from nearby landowners. It is interesting to note that the slaves became so familiar with the swamp during this period that it eventually became a haven for runaways.

The Dismal Swamp Canal is the oldest operating artificial waterway in the United States. Visitors and canal navigators travel where famous explorers and presidents have stood and literary greats have been inspired for over two hundred years. For example, astride the two states' border is the site where the infamous "Halfway House" hotel was built in the late 1820's. The hotel was a popular spot for marriages, duels and those escaping the law. Since the hotel was on the state line, this last group simply walked to the other side of the hotel to avoid being captured in either state. It is also said that Edgar Allen Poe wrote "The Raven" during one of his stays at the hotel.

Today, the Dismal Swamp Canal is on the National Register of Historic Places as a Historic Landmark, and is also noted as a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark. In February 2004, the Dismal Swamp Canal was included in the National Park Service's Underground Railroad Network to Freedom Program. It is maintained by The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers as a navigational resource along the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway

The “Dismal Swamp” name dates back to 1669 and there is debatable discussion on the origin of this less than flattering name. This subject is extremely interesting American history and too long for this blog, but for an interesting read. Use your favorite search engine for “Dismal Swamp history” or “Dismal Swamp Canal” you will find it fascinating.

Elizabeth City Day 234, 235, 236 5/6

Sunrise Thursday over the Alligator River, Columbia NC.






"Docktail" party hosted by volunteers at Elizabeth City, NC Free City Docks





The Memorial recognizing the original "Rose Buddy" Fred Fearing adjacent to the City Docks.







This is the posted signage visable from the water as you pass Elizabeth City on your way to the Dismal Swamp.





A view of the Alligatgor River from our slip at Alligator River Marina.





Our scheduled departure day from New Bern was Monday, however we woke up to a forecast of 50 MPH winds. Since we were entering Pamlico Sound we chose to wait out a day of weather in New Bern. Tuesday we left New Bern in a drizzle, however the winds laid down. We anchored at MM 153, Snode Creek. The Creek has silted in, keeping us from reaching an ideal anchorage. We anchored a few hundred feet off of the ICW among many crab-pots. All worked out well, nice night at anchor. The next day we headed to Alligator River Marina in Columbia NC. Marinas in this stretch of the ICW are far and few between. Alligator River Marina is a nice reasonably priced marina with a little deli/convenience store on site, otherwise, not much else around. We did purchase diesel here. The next day (Thursday) we woke up very early for a sunrise departure to Elizabeth City NC, 23 miles up the ICW. Now this is a town that knows and practices hospitality. They offer free 48 hour docking at the downtown provided piers. They have volunteers that assist you in securing your vessel upon arrival and a representative from the Chamber of Commerce stops by the landing and verbally offers information about their community and hands you a packet with information about the community. At 4:30 the welcoming committee offers a cocktail and informational party at dockside as they continue the rosebud tradition started years ago.

We launched bicycles and rode the downtown area looking at beautiful homes and landscaping. Purchased a few supplies at CVS and came back to the boat. We had dinner at Cypress Garden on Front Street. Tomorrow it is off to the Dismal Swamp Canal. More American history.