Day 230 New Bern

One of the places to stop and enjoy the Neuse River




Sculpture along our bike path








There are beautiful churches and restored homes in this area









We are hanging out here in New Bern, NC, on the Neuse River, (23) miles west of the ICW or Oriental NC. Our replacement parts for the dinghy crane lift arrived Tues and Tom installed them Wed morning. We are happy to have access to the dinghy again. Although Wednesday it was so cool and windy that we chose not to launch it. Hopefully today, Thursday, we can explore the area by dinghy.

After completing the crane/winch repair we rode around the area on bicycles. What a gorgeous display of historic homes along the Neuse River. We have truly enjoyed the beauty of the entire Southeast coast of this great journey. The warm hospitality and charm of these communities have been very rewarding.

The last four days we have experienced extreme high winds; it is just as well we are sitting here secured safely in a protected marina while we prepare to enjoy a week-end visit with family from Illinois,Iowa and NC. We have enjoyed meeting local and transient boaters here at The New Bern Grand Marina (Hilton Hotel). A very pleasant facility.

Day 227 New Bern

Aren't these clever???





This bear has a monopoly game on his back
















New Bern City Hall







Today, Monday I did some laundry which the marina offers free. Tom started sanding the rails and got one coat of varnish on. What an improvement! He’ll do another coat or two tomorrow.

I had previously cleaned and waxed the console on the bridge so today I cleaned all the isinglass on the bridge with a great cleaner our friend Cheri Mueller sold us. It is Plexiglass and worth every penny. Then after I scrubbed the floor, the bridge looked pretty darn good! Too bad it doesn't stay that way.

Tom checked on his parts but they aren’t in yet. We rode to a store to pick up a Christmas present I had on hold. We rode around town and took pictures of some of the bears. To celebrate New Bern’s 300th year history they painted and decorated fiberglass bears around town. I think I mentioned Bern means bear. Also for the celebration 40 volunteers of all ages have painted 40 fire hydrants to represent characters from the history of the city. They are so cute!

This another beautiful community offering hospitality and southern charm with the best of modern conveniences. This waterfront town is surrounded by two rivers, the Neuse River as well as the Trent River. Additionally this is the home of Pepsi-Cola. New Bern's settlement began in 1710 and grew by the mid 1700's to a major vital port for the new Colonies. New Bern was NC's first Capital City. This 250-slip marina is part of the waterfront Hilton Hotel-Convention Center and the slip fee costs are extremely reasonable. A very nice facility with all the amenities. Lots of nice boats here. This harbor is tidal since the Neuse River empties into the Atlantic Ocean with no obstructions between here and the ocean.

Day 226 Oriental & New Bern NC

Sunset from our slip here in New Bern, NC






Shrimp boats at Oriental NC off the bow of "Noah Genda"





Oriental NC beautiful southern homes





Oriental NC home converted to retail shop adjacent to Marina






Transient boats off our port side at Oriental Marina & Inn






Oriental NC Java Cafe, across the street from the Marina. We enjoyed breakfast and coffee before departure on our way to New Bern.



We spent Friday at Oriental Marina & Inn where the marina staff was very friendly and helpful. Both our marina and the free dock are in the middle of downtown. Oriental is a small town where everyone knows your name. After washing the boat we had a great lunch at the onsite restaurant. We rode bikes to check out the area; found a grocery store and I found a few shops. Even if Tom had wanted to stop, he couldn’t because he had to get his ice cream back to the boat. We met the couples docked on each side of us and had dinner at M & M restaurant with Sally and Angus off the boat “Ginger II”. Enjoyed their company and my shrimp and grits and Tom’s meatloaf were both great.

We are meeting six of my relatives (2 sisters, nephews, & spouses) in New Bern so we are staying for 10 days and there will be only periodic blog updates unless Tom takes over. I am so excited to see everyone. We are here early so we would have an address to have new wiring parts for the dinghy mailed and Tom would have time to work on it. I’m finally getting my hair cut and colored this week at a salon close by. It’s always kind of scary but it CANNOT look any worse than it does. Can it?????????

Swiss Baron Christoph De Graffenried has been credited with settling here in 1710. He named the city after his home town of Bern, Switzerland. Bern means bear which is how it has become their official flag that features a black bear with its distinctive long, curling tongue. There are still black bears in the forests located near New Bern.

There is a Hilton overlooking the harbor (where my relatives will be) that has outdoor music every Friday and Sunday afternoon, plus next week-end is a blues and jazz fest right down the block. I think we can find enough to keep us busy for a few days.

Day 224 Beaufort, NC

Downtown Beaufort, NC





Noah Genda at City Docks







One many Beaufort historic homes dating back to the 1700's







Shoreline of the marines training at Camp Lejuene



I hope you're paying attention and don't miss the sign!






This cemetary from the 1700 was interesting.













There were many things to do in Wilmington that you need 2 to 3 full days. What I didn’t mention and that we didn't have time to do is tour the Screen Gems Studio, one of several film companies in Wilmington. Also the battleship USS North Carolina is directly across the river from the city dock and is open for tours. We missed going to a glass blowing retail business for demonstrations and product. There are more museums, tours and live theatres, as well as the Cape Fear Serpentarium which has over 100 species of snakes. It claims to be the largest collection of venomous reptiles in the world. I immediately put that visit at the top of my list but as luck would have it they aren’t open on Monday or Tuesday. Guess what days we were there???

Our travel took us through an interesting 18 miles of Marine Camp Lejeune on the New River. Along with the sign showing the live artillery firing which may close the river for 1-4 hours, they also practice amphibious landings which could close the river for 24 hours. Fortunately, we didn’t encounter either but we did hear very loud booms from their artillery firing on shore. The noise made you jump and your first thought was the boat hit something.

We spent Thursday night at Beaufort, NC (that’s pronounced Bo’fort with a long O) Yes, we were also in Beaufort SC but that name is pronounced Bew-Fort. I’m told the locals get pretty upset if you confuse the two. Morehead City and Beaufort are located very close to each other and we didn’t know which one we should stay at. At New River City Marina (our stay on Wed night) we ran into Betsy from the boat “Rick & Roll”. They have completed the loop so I asked for her advice and she highly recommended Beaufort. This is the third oldest town in North Carolina and it has survived pirates, hurricanes, depression and tourism. In 1974 the town transformed the dilapidated fish houses into a major yachting center. Beaufort City docks are a little pricey but they are right in the middle of shopping, restaurants and of course ice cream stores. Shackleford Island across the river from us has wild horses but as yet I haven’t been lucky enough to see any.

Days 220 & 221 Wilmington NC

Helm of the S/V Peacemaker





Architecture around Wilmington, NC








Architecture around Wilmington, NC





Architecture around Wilmington, NC





20' tall giant sloth skeleton found in Wilmington.





Noah Genda docked next to the boardwalk







Young crew member doing repairs on Peacemaker




150' Tall ship "Peacemaker", all wood construction, built in Brazil in 1989











Freighter being unloaded in Wilmington





We set an alarm Sunday night so we could get an early start (6:25am) departing Myrtle Beach SC, since we had 70+ miles to get to Wilmingtonon NC located 20 miles up Cape Fear River. Leaving that early didn’t help us because we missed the opening of the Sunset Beach Pontoon Bridge (0 clearance) by 5 minutes. Since it only opens on the hour we had to wait 55 minutes for the next scheduled opening! On today’s trip we left South Carolina and entered North Carolina at mile ICW MM 340.9. The ICW is extremely narrow in this area and it is a "No Wake" for quite a distance. A couple of the inlets are challenging with misplaced or missing navigational aids as well as some very shallow water.

The 202 mile long Cape Fear River is named for the dangerous Cape Fear shoals off Bald Head Island, near the river's mouth. It flows southeast to the Atlantic Ocean but when the tide comes in from the ocean it fights the river flow and causes some major rocking of our boat here at the City Docks in Wilmington.

At the turn of the century, majestic sailing ships delivered treasures from around the world to the Port of Wilmington. An example of a tall ship is currently docked in front of us. The Peacemaker is 150’ with 126 feet high masts. I’ll let Tom describe the rest to you. The vessel was constructed in 1989 in Brazil by a Brazilian industrialist for him and his family to sail the world. After launch and very little use the original owners idea was abandoned and the vessel sat in the Palmer Johnson yard in Brunswick, Georgia while it deteriorated for the next few years. A world organization titled “Twelve Tribes” purchased the vessel in 2000 and spent the next seven years totally refurbishing it into what you see today. Quite a remarkable achievement by a volunteer group of sailing enthusiasts. They currently tour the entire East Coast of the U.S. offering free tours in communities they visit along the way. The craftsmanship is absolutely stunning. This was a very educational tour.

Cotton was king and one of the largest and busiest cotton export companies in the world was located here. The Cotton Exchange is eight restored buildings connected by brick walkways; open air court-yards housing 30 specialty shops and restaurants. I only made it to one store and had so many packages I couldn’t carry them on my bike. I had to call Tom to meet me with his bicycle and basket. The Cotton Exchange was the first downtown complex in North Carolina to adapt and utilize existing buildings, serving as an excellent example of local preservation.

Wilmington area is still one of the major US ports for freighters. As we arrived, it was interesting to see them unload box cars with what looked like a magnetic crane and load them immediately on a semi that was sitting there waiting. For more than a century, railroading was Wilmington’s chief industry and was the center of commerce with warehouses filled with naval supplies, tools, cotton and turpentine. The wharf was destroyed by fire in 1840 but the wharf has been restored to the Old South feeling.

I toured a museum and found out that Michael Jordon was born in Brooklyn NY but went to school and grew up here in Wilmington. The dining has been great here. There are over fifty restaurants in Wilmington and not one chain/franchise restaurant in the downtown historic district. We had time to sample three restaurants and they were great.

I love this area!

Day 219 North Myrtle Beach 4/18

This home has a blue water feature cascading down from the swimming pool




One of the many gorgeous homes along the ICW towards North Myrtle Beach.



The ICW really narrows along this stretch.





Barefoot Resort Yacht Club where the rendezvous is being held




3 large Turtles sunning themselves





Us on our bike ride around the lake.





Alabama Theatre



This morning we had a few mishaps when we tried to leave Osprey Marina like Tom couldn’t find the key to turn in for the showers, etc. We still haven’t found it but that situation was minor. Our boat wouldn’t start!!! After Friday’s dinghy winch failure, Tom had the turned the battery switches off that fed the engines. It didn’t take long for him to realize he had de-energized the engine battery after our dinghy problem so we were on our way. It was only 19 miles to Barefoot Landing but most of the area was no wake which is okay because we had a chance to view all the nice homes along the waterfront. Barefoot Landing at MM 354 is just a tie up along a boardwalk without any amenities, located directly across the ICW from Barefoot Resort where the AGLCA is holding the Spring 2010 rendezvous starting next week. Our good hometown friends Jim and Brenda Hampton are attending the rendezvous since they are starting this great adventure in the fall 2010. We will not be attending since we chose to meet family in New Bern, NC the week of the Rendezvous.

If you golf, this is the place for you with a course designed by Greg Norman, Davis Love III, Tom Fazio and Pete Dye. I don’t golf so these names are not meaningful to me but if you do you would recognize these names. For us non-golfers this area offers a lot of shopping, restaurants and specialty stores. The House of Blues is here, and Greg Norman’s Australian Grille, also the Alabama Theatre which we attended last night. The group Alabama perfected their talent here in Myrtle Beach and wanted to give the area a place for other entertainers to perform and had the theatre built. It is on the cutting edge of technology and special effects and a floor that floats on rubber bushings to cushion the impact on joints. The show we saw is called “One-The Show” and it was 2 ½ hours of professional lively entertainment at a reasonable price. In addition to the band, there were 28 artists ranging from a comedian, several singers, guitarists, violinists and acrobatic stunts. Very enjoyable.

We had breakfast on board and relaxed and before we knew it, it was 1:30 and we hadn’t set foot out of the boat. We hopped on the bikes and found a Bi-Lo grocery. When we returned our friends, Ed & BJ Skinner, from Harbour Cay at Marathon were docked directly behind us here at Barefoot Landing. They also needed a grocery store so after washing down their boat, they borrowed our bikes and headed to the same store. We elected to eat on board and watch Sunday night TV on NBC (the only channel we get here). We plan on getting up early (6am) to head off by day break toward Wilmington NC

It has been a nice stay here in North Myrtle Beach.

Day 217, MM 373 ICW, Near Myrtle Beach SC

Dinghy, stuck in this position, ready to lift OB motor off.







Crane/Lift ceased operation at this elevation.







Cypress lined ICW in Northern South Carolina








Today the landscape changed dramatically. This northern part of the South Carolina ICW has changed to beautiful Cypress trees lining the waterway.






We stayed at Hazzard Marine which was the first marina on your starboard side. Georgetown is another beautiful stop but with a small town feeling. We loved riding through town admiring the meticulous landscaping at every home we passed and the rainbow of colored azaleas in full bloom. We road along a boardwalk checking out all the restaurants

I visited The Rice Museum which toured buildings dating back to 1842. The Kaminski building housed the Browns Ferry Vessel which is an 18th century cargo ship and is the oldest colonial vessel manufactured in the US. It has been carefully restored and declared the most important single nautical discovery in the United States by anthropologists worldwide. The roof of the museum had to be lifted off so the vessel could be lowered to the exhibit area. The ship is the oldest on exhibit in the US predating all other ships by 50 years.

The labor intensive crop of rice was grown successfully in South Carolina as early as 1680. By the early 18th century with the slave system established on a large scale, rice became a major crop export. Rice planting was extremely profitable. South Carolina’s tidal swamps were well-suited for rice and because of the seasons both rice and indigo crops could be grown using the same labor force.
Dinner was at the Goat Island Grill where we decided to eat inside because after the sun goes down it does get cool. Good food and nice people.

If we had read ahead in Skipper Bob’s book, before leaving Georgetown, we would have discovered marvelous anchorages (between MM 395 & MM 375) that are highly rated and we would have anchored for the night in lieu of staying at a marina Friday evening. We really had a big tide "push" all the way today to our current location; Osprey Marina at Myrtle Beach; MM373. We purchased fuel at Osprey Marina today @ $2.66 including the 10 cent Boat U.S discount. Nice marina for $1.00 @ foot, very quiet, friendly staff, small breakfast /lunch grille on site, however nothing else to reach by foot or bike.

This afternoon our plans were to launch the dinghy for a fun afternoon of searching out all of the beautiful waterways and backwaters of cypress lined trees. We had an unexpected failure in the crane/winch system leaving the dinghy stranded in the air, 6’ above the water line and smoke pouring out of the Crane stand tube. Tom immediately interrupted the power source that feeds the Crane/Lift. Needless to say that pretty much turned a very nice afternoon into dismantling the aft-stateroom so Tom could access everything necessary to get to the factory wiring inside the crane tube. We had to solicit a young maintenance man working on a nearby sport fisherman boat to help Tom remove the outboard motor (While it was hanging 6’ above the water line attached to the lifting cable) to make the inflatable light enough for the two of them to lift the inflatable so I could release the crane lifting eye. What chaos. The factory wiring failed/melted inside the crane stand pipe. Tom called Roskelley & Olsson (the manufacture) and they are shipping parts out Monday from Seattle to our future location in New Bern NC. Tom was able to re-route and rewire, temporarily, the wires that fed the crane through a stateroom window, make temporary connections to the motor, re-assemble the inflatable boat and lift the dinghy back up on top of the hardtop with the crane/lift. He then removed the temporary connections, re-assembled the aft-stateroom and everything looks like nothing happened after about three hours of very hard work. So glad he is mechanically inclined.

We were so hot, tired and sweaty, that we both just wanted a shower and light dinner aboard tonight and rest. Hope tomorrow is a less troublesome day. We are heading to Barefoot Landing at Myrtle Beach for a couple of days of R & R.

Day 215 Charleston & Anchorage 4/16/10

The "low lands". Lets hope they don't forget anything when you head to the boat.








We passed a boat graveyard. This is just 2 of the boats that were left to die a slow death.






Our boat is on this side of the pier. It was a little frightening to look up and see him so close.



Glad he is in control, he could demolish us.




A bulk freighter transports a variety items. I'm curious where they are headed.



With Charleston being the 4th largest shipping port in the US, we are seeing many freighters, cruise Ships, Navy Ships, sailboats, and many Charleston Harbor tourist excursion vessels. Today a Navy submarine cruised by our boat escorted by armed gun boats. Tom received an email from a home town friend whose son was the nuclear operator on that very sub . He and the rest of the crew are taking it to Norfolk, VA for routine repairs in dry dock. It really is a small world!

The population of Charleston is 111,000 with 63 restaurants in the downtown area alone. It was a hard decision but we chose to have dinner at Bocci Italian Restaurant. Again, we were not disappointed.

In the south you hear of areas called Rainbow Row. Years ago many people could not read or write so they painted their houses different colors in order to describe to someone where they lived.

The last few days, Tom has been noticing a yellow film on cars and on the boat. We found out the film is due to the high pollen count. I’ve never been bothered with allergies or hay fever but I’m bothered now! It’s hard to tell if it is hay fever or a cold but I’ve been sneezing, coughing, watery eyes, runny nose and headache. I guess that is the price I have pay for enjoying all the beautiful flowers and trees that we’ve seen along the way.

There are many vessels heading north after wintering in the south. Today the marine radio chatter was constant form so much traffic. The waterway is quite narrow and passing slower vessels requires radio communication for safe passage. After traveling 49 miles on a mostly cloudy day, we are anchored at off the ICW at MM 420 on the South Santee River. The landscaping we passed is what they call low lands and marshes. Since we arrived there are 3 sailboats and another motor vessel that are anchored in the area.